Inside the 228-year-old London restaurant that time forgot
A Timeless Covent Garden Institution: Rules Restaurant
Inside the 228 year old London – Step onto Maiden Lane in central London, and you will immediately notice the vibrant red flags fluttering above gold-trimmed awnings. This is Rules, a legendary dining establishment that has welcomed guests for nearly three centuries. Stenciled in gleaming gold lettering across the windows are three simple yet quintessentially British words: “Oysters. Pies. Pudding.” These three offerings represent the heart and soul of this historic eatery, which proudly holds the distinction of being London’s oldest continuously operating restaurant.
A Legacy Spanning Centuries
Thomas Rule first opened these doors in 1798 as an oyster bar, beginning a journey that would see the establishment become a cultural landmark. Over the course of 228 years, Rules has hosted an extraordinary roster of distinguished visitors. Literary legends such as Charles Dickens have shared tables with entertainment icons including Madonna and David Bowie. Even Queen Elizabeth II has graced the premises, though notably not during the same lunch service as the pop stars.
The restaurant’s cinematic credentials are equally impressive. Film and television producers have frequently chosen Rules as their setting, drawn to its authentic period atmosphere. In the 2015 James Bond installment “Spectre,” Ralph Fiennes portrays M dining solo before being joined by colleagues Q and Moneypenny. The acclaimed series “Downton Abbey” also utilized the venue extensively, with producers appreciating that minimal modifications were necessary to maintain the original interiors.
Preserving History While Evolving
Walking through the entrance transports visitors to a bygone era. Walls are adorned with vintage mirrors, classical statues, and marble busts, interspersed with countless drawings, cartoons, and paintings. Careful observation reveals portraits of celebrated former guests including Laurence Olivier, Buster Keaton, Clark Gable, and Charlie Chaplin.
Ricky McMenemy has served as the restaurant’s guardian for 37 years, transitioning from manager to owner in 2022. His connection to Rules runs deep.
“Rules for me became a surrogate child,” McMenemy explains. “If you don’t have the passion for it, you shouldn’t do it. It just has something that catches you by the heart — it’s really a very special place, it seduces people.”
When McMenemy first arrived in 1993, the establishment required significant investment.
“It needed a lot of love and care,” he recalls. “The food, service and the décor was tired, so it took years for us to rebuild. When we ripped out the kitchen in 1993, it was Dickensian! We spent half a million pounds redoing it, which also ensured that we attracted a much better chef.”
The philosophy has been one of careful progression rather than radical transformation.
“We never wanted it to be fossilized, or set in aspic,” McMenemy says. “We undertook a quiet evolution, so it continues to improve.”
Game, Grub, and History Combined
The dining room features plush red leather banquettes surrounding tables draped in pristine white linens. Dozens of mounted antlers hanging from the ceiling signal the restaurant’s particular expertise: wild game. During World War II, Rules maintained operations with just two hours of lunch service, serving meals that adhered to compulsory rationing regulations. While government-restricted offerings may not have represented culinary excellence, the restaurant cleverly circumvented wartime shortages by featuring wild-caught grouse, roe deer, pheasant, and rabbit—none of which fell under rationing laws.
Today, through an exclusive partnership with estate game dealer Andy Dent, Rules sells more game than any other establishment in the United Kingdom. The menu celebrates British culinary heritage with appetizers including fresh Dorset crab salad, potted shrimps accompanied by toast, and Uig Lodge smoked salmon from Scotland’s Isle of Lewis. Main courses feature steak and kidney pudding, roast rib of beef with Yorkshire pudding for two, and an assortment of savory pies.
The signature steak and kidney pie arrives with a silver jug of rich gravy, a portion of mashed potato, and a pot of sharp English mustard. Generously filled with quality beef and kidney, it is crowned with a golden brown pastry crust. Diners may also order this dish as a decadent steamed suet pudding, with the option to add an oyster for extra indulgence.
Critical reception has not always been uniformly positive. The 1975 “Good Food Guide” criticized waiters as being “out of sorts with life,” while another reviewer remarked that vegetables “tasted as if preserved since 1798.” However, those were different times, when British cuisine faced global skepticism. Today, London stands recognized as one of the world’s premier culinary destinations, and Rules remains a testament to enduring quality and tradition.
