‘You can’t smell Nowruz in the air’: Iran marks Persian new year under threat of strikes

You can’t smell Nowruz in the air’: Iran marks Persian new year under threat of strikes

Iranians have long looked forward to the arrival of Nowruz, the traditional Persian new year festival, as a time of renewal and joy. However, this year’s celebration feels markedly different, with many struggling to find the same enthusiasm amid ongoing conflict. Mina, a 50-something resident of Damavand, northeast of Tehran, recalls the usual excitement of preparations—deep cleaning, buying new clothes, and gathering sweets—but now describes the days as slow and heavy with anxiety.

“This year? Every day feels so long. It’s like I’ve lost track of time,” she says, her voice trembling. The festival, meaning “new day,” is rooted in ancient traditions, celebrating the spring equinox and symbolizing the rebirth of nature. With a history spanning over 3,000 years, Nowruz is one of the world’s oldest cultural observances. This year, it begins on 20 March, followed by the formal start of the Iranian new year on 21 March.

Yet, for many, this Nowruz will be their first to coincide with war. Since 28 February, Iran has faced relentless attacks from U.S. and Israeli forces. According to the US-based Human Rights Activists in Iran, over 3,114 lives have been lost, including 1,354 civilians—207 of whom were children. Tehran has retaliated by targeting Israel and US-backed allies in the Gulf, escalating the conflict.

Festival Traditions Under Siege

Nowruz is more than a holiday; it represents the shared heritage of Iranians, blending Persian, Parsi, Kurdish, Armenian, Azerbaijani, Tajik, Kazakh, Uzbek, and other cultural practices. One of its core customs involves thoroughly cleaning homes to symbolically erase past misfortunes and welcome a fresh beginning. But this year, the ritual of preparation has taken on a new weight.

“When the new year comes, I don’t know whether the sound of the holiday announcement on TV will be mixed with the noise of missiles and drones… but I really hope not,” Mina says.

Her son Amir, who moved to Damavand with his family, echoes her concern. “People are losing jobs with the war. My biggest worry is our country’s infrastructure,” he says. “At this rate, there might not even be much left of Iran. I don’t want this to be our last Nowruz.”

A Changing Landscape of Celebration

Families typically gather during the two-week Nowruz holidays, but this year’s visits are sparse. “We’ve been displaced ourselves, so we left Tehran and came somewhere a bit safer,” Mina explains. “I wish everything could be wiped from our memories like we just woke up from a bad dream.”

Markets and streets that once buzzed with festive activity now feel subdued. Parmis, a 20-something woman in Tehran, describes the shift: “It used to be so much easier to find all the items for Nowruz before. Now, if you go anywhere, you’re always worried whether you’ll be caught in an air strike.” Despite the danger, she ventured out on 17 March for a nail appointment, noting that even an explosion at the salon didn’t deter her.

“I feel like some are still carrying on despite everything, like me. I was in the salon when a loud explosion went off, and no-one even flinched,” Parmis says.

Meanwhile, Maryam, another resident, highlights the resilience of tradition. “There were people out buying things for Haft Sin. I saw flowers and some street vendors,” she recalls. “But no, it’s not like it was in previous years. Still, this is a tradition that happens once a year, and we must celebrate it.”

Divided Perspectives on the Conflict

While many mourn the disruption, others see Nowruz as a symbol of resistance. Ramtin, a 30-something man in Tehran, argues: “What’s the point of Nowruz? If the Islamic Republic stays in power, we have to live with endless hardships. Nowruz is always there, comes and goes. This time, the Islamic Republic must go.”

“I feel the same. Even if everything falls apart, I still think the Islamic Republic needs to go. We don’t care about Nowruz, we don’t even have Haft Sin on our table,” Kian adds, describing his mother’s fervor for the cause.

For others, Nowruz remains a beacon of hope. As the cold of winter begins to recede, the festival continues to mark a seasonal turning point, even as its celebration is overshadowed by war.